With 52 years of history, the Labrugeira Cooperative Winery reaffirms itself as one of the pillars of the wine sector in Alenquer. Under the leadership of José Paulo Duarte, the institution, born from the union of dozens of winegrowers, is currently investing in the recovery of native grape varieties, the modernization of production, and the enhancement of the territory, seeking to reconcile tradition, local identity, and innovation in an increasingly competitive market.
A region that has made history and wine.
The Alenquer region has been recognized for centuries as a privileged territory for wine production. In the 12th century, the Portuguese Royal House was already selecting its wines; and between the 16th and 19th centuries, several authors reinforced this reputation. Camilo Castelo Branco, in his work "A Filha do Regicida" (The Regicide's Daughter), highlighted Labrugeira as an area where "the tavern provided ample sustenance for two good drinks of local wine," attesting to the territory's long-standing fame.
The terroir, shaped by the sunny slopes, clay soils, and gentle influence of the Atlantic, remains the region's secret. The proximity to the ocean and the southern exposure impart a balanced freshness to both red and white wines, a characteristic that distinguishes Alenquer wines within the Lisbon region.
1973: The year the union created a winery.
The formal history of the Labrugeira Cooperative Winery began in 1973, when winegrowers from the upper part of the municipality of Alenquer realized that the future of their vineyards would be more solid if built together.
Thus was born the idea of creating a common structure capable of giving voice, value, and visibility to the agricultural work of each family. There were 18 founding members, but the cooperative quickly grew to more than 300 associates, becoming, throughout the 1980s, a benchmark in the municipality. By 1984, there were already 320 winegrowers united by the same purpose.
Initially, the winery experienced a period of strong expansion, resulting from the massive participation of producers and the evolution of the wine sector in the country. In 1975, at a time when the country was changing and modernizing, construction began on the current facilities, built from scratch by the farmers themselves, unlike other cooperatives in the region that received buildings from the National Wine Board.
The identity maintained with grapes from the partners.
For José Paulo Duarte, chairman of the board for the past three years, the reason why the winery has maintained its identity and continuity for half a century is both simple and profound:
"It is sustained through the efforts of the partners in believing in and investing their grapes here."
No matter how many awards the wines accumulate, nothing survives without trust, commitment, and raw materials. It is this pact between winegrowers and the winery that preserves the original cooperative spirit.
Vital: a caste safeguarded by cooperation
The "White Empathy" through its Vital caste has been prominent in recent times. The Vital caste, once dominant in the West, was nearly extinct due to its difficulty in working with it. But when well cared for, it proves to be unique.
The project was born in 2017, in an exchange of knowledge and native grape varieties between the municipality of Alenquer and Benkovac in Croatia. The Vital grape variety benefits from the altitude of the Serra de Montejunto mountain range, the natural freshness of the Atlantic, and an ideal terroir. The result is a wine that “creates empathy” and gives life back to a historic grape variety of the region.
The terroir that shapes the character of the wines.
The vineyards in the region, many of them on mid-slopes and well exposed to the sun, have low productivity but high concentration, resulting in wines with structure, aroma, and longevity. The clay soils, combined with moderate humidity and proximity to the sea (about 14 kilometers in a straight line), guarantee the balanced acidity that characterizes Alenquer wines.
The Labrugeira Cooperative Winery presents a diverse range of wines and spirits, distributed across four main segments: Alenquer DOP wines, Lisboa IGP wines, wines without designation, and spirits. The authenticity of the Serra de Montejunto, the Atlantic influence, and traditional knowledge define the character of the products.
The Alenquer DOP and Lisboa IGP seals reinforce the commitment to origin and quality. For the president, these recognitions are fundamental: "Our wines can stand side-by-side with any wine from the Douro to the Alentejo."
• Some Alenquer DOP wines: Empatia (White and red).
• Some IGP Lisboa wines: Velharia Reserva (Red), Talismã Reserva (Red and White) and Fructus – Leve (White and Rosé)
Export, challenges and the future of cooperatives.
The winery has already exported more than half of its production. Currently, the goal is to recover markets and increase the added value of the wines. For Mário Afonso, the cooperative's financier, this will allow for better payments to producers, reinforcing the community's sustainability.
Both emphasize the social importance of cooperatives, which support families, preserve agricultural activity, and promote territorial cohesion, something often forgotten by successive governments.
With approximately 150 active members currently, Adega da Labrugeira faces challenges, but remains steadfast in its commitment to hard work and transparency. Modernizing processes, enhancing the product's value, and conquering new markets are clear goals.
A future made of memory.
José Paulo Duarte cherishes memories that explain his passionate defense of cooperatives. He remembers, as a child, the difficulties his family and so many others in the region faced in selling their grapes at fair prices. The solution ended up being becoming members of the Labrugeira Cooperative Winery.
It is a legacy, but also a conscious choice, the same one that, 52 years ago, united 18 farmers in a vision that still stands today in the landscape of Alenquer.
